Your water well must be positioned at least 75 feet away from any septic field and a minimum of 50 feet from any septic tank. The wellhead should rise 8 to 12 inches above ground level. Most wells are constructed with 4 to 6-inch diameter steel casing, though certain states and counties have approved PVC materials. Some properties have well pits, where the well is housed in a concrete or cement block vault alongside the tank and controls. New well pit construction is prohibited by law. Current regulations only permit tanks and controls in new vault installations when necessary.

For jet pumps, six primary causes exist for this issue: worn impellers, a vacuum or pressure leak, a plugged sand point, a blocked jet or venturi, a defective pressure switch, or a dropped water table. For submersible pumps, the main causes include a worn pump, decreased water table, a leak in the system, a plugged intake, or a faulty pressure switch.

We maintain an extensive database of well depths and water tables through our connections with numerous state and geological agencies. We can typically provide an approximate depth, if not the exact depth, of your well. Additional information regarding your well is also available through these resources.

With minimal information from you, we can generally determine your equipment type, the manufacturer and model, and the approximate date of manufacture. Various concealed and scripted date codes exist on this equipment. Contact us, and we will guide you on where to locate these identifiers.

A well cap is an approved manufactured cover made from cast steel, aluminum, or PVC. It attaches to the well casing using bolts and features a rubber compression O-ring and gasket to create a watertight and vermin-proof seal. Well caps include ventilation with brass or stainless mesh and contain a female threaded port for electrical cable insertion. All well caps must meet state approval requirements.

Possibly, though homeowners frequently create additional problems rather than resolving existing ones. You are permitted to work on your own well. However, pouring a gallon or two of household bleach into your well does not properly clean or disinfect your well or water supply. Chlorine is a toxic substance, as indicated on product labels. The proper concentrations and placement methods are critical factors you should understand. Bleach is highly corrosive, and when left in high concentrations on internal well components and materials, it can destroy mechanical apparatus or sealing devices. A $1.79 gallon of bleach could damage your pump. For safety, contact us for guidance. We are available to assist you.

Your water well must be positioned at least 75 feet away from any septic field and a minimum of 50 feet from any septic tank. The wellhead should rise 8 to 12 inches above ground level. Most wells are constructed with 4 to 6-inch diameter steel casing, though certain states and counties have approved PVC materials. Some properties have well pits, where the well is housed in a concrete or cement block vault alongside the tank and controls. New well pit construction is prohibited by law. Current regulations only permit tanks and controls in new vault installations when necessary.

Contaminated water can be crystal clear, odorless, and taste excellent. Infants and elderly individuals have sensitive systems. Waterborne bacteria can result in serious organ and neurological damage and, if undetected, can be fatal. We recommend that a state-licensed and certified contractor inspect your water well and pumping system and that a water sample be collected and retested after 30 days. For ongoing safety, an annual water sample is advisable. Contaminated water may appear crystal clear, have no odor, and taste perfectly fine. For additional information, refer to our well inspections for realtors and homeowners.

Yes, sample bottles can be obtained from your local Department of Public Health or from our facility. Be sure to obtain sampling instructions and schedule your sample collection around laboratory hours and incubation periods. The optimal time to collect and submit a sample is typically on Mondays or Tuesdays. Samples that remain over weekends are not recommended. If you prefer confidential results from an in-home water sample instead of a public laboratory record, sample kits are available at our office or can be shipped directly to you for $19.95 plus $3.20 for shipping and handling.

All water systems require a pressure tank, and the size is an important consideration. Several types of storage tanks are available. The most effective tank is the captive air or bladder-type tank. Most bladder-type tanks require no maintenance and are available in various sizes to match your water pump. Some tanks are buried underground when no other option exists. Unfortunately, most buried tanks are susceptible to natural soil acids and corrode within several years after installation. If your water has non-aggressive iron content, mineral content, and pH levels, a buried tank may suit your needs. Replacing a buried tank requires excavating equipment such as a backhoe, which can be expensive. Servicing or replacing an indoor tank requires only a standard service call.