Frequently Asked Questions
Do you have a question that isn’t covered in our Frequently Asked Questions? Click here to contact us!
- Water Wells – Where’s mine and what’s the law?
- Why doesn’t my pump shut off?
- How deep is my well?
- How old is my well and water system?
- What is a well cap?
- Am I allowed to work on my own well?
- Can I disinfect or chlorinate my own well?
- Can I take my own water sample?
- I have a new baby…What about the water?
- I don’t have a storage tank in my house… so where is it?
- How often is my pump supposed to run?
- How do I size a tank?
- So what’s the difference between Lowes, Menards, Home Depot, and other mass merchandisers and us?
- Can I have my tank and pump controls moved inside where it’s dry and won’t freeze?
Your water well should located opposite and or at least 75 feet away from any septic field and at least 50′ feet from any septic tank. Your wellhead should extend at least 8″ to 12 ” above grade. Your well is most likely 4″ to 6″ diameter steel. However, Some States and counties have approved PVC.
You may have a well pit? If so, your well may be located in a concrete or cement block vault along with your tank and controls. Constructing a new well pit is illegal! If need be, only tanks and controls are allowed in new vault applications.
If you have a JET-PUMP: there are six basic reasons for this condition. (1) the impellers are worn. (2) a vacuum or pressure leak (3) your sand point is plugged (4) jet or venturi is plugged (5) faulty pressure switch (6) the water table has dropped
If you have a SUBMERSIBLE PUMP: (1) the pump is worn (2) the water table has dropped (3) there is a leak (4) intake is plugged (5) faulty pressure switch
Our database of well depths and water tables is rather extensive. We are tied into many State and Geological agencies. We should have a good handle on an approximate depth, if not the actual depth. Other information is also at hand.
With just a little help from you, we can usually identify what kind of equipment you have, the make and model and approximate manufacturing date. There are a variety of hidden and scripted date codes. Just call and we will tell you where to look.
A well cap is an approved manufactured cover of cast steel, aluminum, or PVC. It is fastened on to the well casing with bolts and a rubber compression “O” ring and gasket. Both are incorporated to make a watertight and vermin proof seal. Well caps are also vented with a brass or stainless mesh. A female threaded port is used to tie in and insert electrical cable. Well caps must be State approved.
Of course, you are. You must comply with all the statutes and construction codes designated by your State. Can a friend install my pump? No! Only a State certified, registered, and licensed contractor is allowed to drill wells or install pumps. What about a plumber? Plumbing, well drilling, and pump installation are three entirely different trades. Many plumbers pose that their credentials are qualified in pump installation. Only plumbers having attended certified continuing education classes and those that have requested to be identified and recognized by the State are qualified and acceptable. Demand to see a plumber’s State License bearing the letter “P” verifying he or she is a qualified pump and water supply system installer.
Perhaps? Many times homeowners cause more problems than they solve.
But… yes, you can. Just dumping a gallon or two of household bleach down your well does not effectively clean and disinfect your well or water supply.
Remember…. “CHLORINE IS POISON” just look at the label! The concentrations necessary and the placement are all factors you should know.
Bleach is highly corrosive, and if left in high concentrations on parts and materials inside your well, it will surely destroy the mechanical apparatus or sealing device. Your pump may be ruined by a $1.79 gallon of beach! Be safe, not sorry, call for advice. We will be glad to help!
Yes, sample bottles are available from your local Dept. of Public Health.
Or at our facility. Please remember to get sampling instructions, and time your sample around laboratory hours and incubation times. The best time to take and submit a sample is usually on Mondays or Tuesdays. Samples sitting over weekends are not preferred. If you prefer the confidential results of an in-home water sample rather than a public laboratory record, sample kits are available at our office or sent directly to you at $19.95 + plus $3.20 shipping and handling.
CONTAMINATED WATER MAY BE CRYSTAL CLEAR, MAY HAVE NO SMELL, AND TASTE SIMPLY WONDERFUL!
Infants, as well as seniors, have delicate systems. Waterborne bacteria can cause severe organ and neurological damage and if undetected, death! We recommend that your water well and or pumping system be inspected by a state licensed and certified contractor and a water sample taken and repeated in 30 days. For your own safety, an annual “sample only” is advised.
Remember contaminated water can be crystal clear, can have no smell and taste simply wonderful. For more information click on well inspections for realtors and homeowners.
All water systems require a pressure tank and size does make a difference!
There are few types of storage tanks out there. The most functional tank is the captive air or bladder type tank. Most bladder type tanks are completely maintenance free and come in a variety of sizes to accommodate the water pump. Some tanks are buried when there is no other alternative. Unfortunately, most burial tanks are attacked by natural soil acids and rust out several years after installation. If the iron. mineral content, and pH of your water is not aggressive a burial tank may fit your application. The labor to replace a burial tank will require a backhoe or some type of excavating equipment. Pretty costly!!! To service or replace a tank inside is simply a service call.
It doesn’t hurt your pump to run as much as it does to cycle or turn on and off rapidly. Short cycling or a water-logged tank causes the pump to turn on and off excessively. Let’s face it, there is so many on and offs a pump can take. A water-logged tank is the single most common reason for pump failure. If you’re concerned we can coach you over the phone on how to balance, calibrate, and adjust your system to maximize efficiency and performance.
A pump’s life is gauged on the number of times it goes on and off. If you can reduce the on and offs or (cycles), you will increase the life of your pump! To accomplish this you must have a correct tank size. A good rule of thumb, and all manufacturers recommend, that a pump should run at least (1) one minute from cut in to cut out. For pumps over ¾ horsepower, (2) two minutes is recommended. To properly size a tank, you must know the rate in gallons per minute that your pump will pump. Most residential pumps are rated at 10 GPM (gallons per minute). Need help? Advice is free.
Great….. Now we have to prove ourselves! All mass merchandisers have purchase power far beyond the means of any local service and repair firm. Truckloads of economy and below trade standard pumps, parts, tanks, and fittings are available without explanation as fast as your Visa card can process. All they have to do is sell it. They don’t have to install, adjust, calibrate, or balance anything! They are not called upon to design a system that fits your needs or calculate performance curves that provide efficient and cost-effective operation. The only guarantee you have is your receipt; the labor’s on you! Planning on taking it back? Guess again. If your pump even appears used or previously installed, it’s yours to keep. No returns on used merchandise. Most likely you’re helped by a young well-intended youth having not the slightest idea of anything but the cost and bigger must be better. You are better off taking the money you might have saved and buying a proven, nationally known product, by a nationally known manufacturer, with a real guaranty by a contractor who is certified and licensed, who is proud to look you straight in the eye at the coffee shop or grocery store. It doesn’t cost… it pays!
Yes, and quite easily too! Well pits have been the single most cause and source of contaminated water supplies. Extending your well casing out of the well pit, free of surface water and contained stagnate water will reduce the risk of contaminated water. Moving the tank and controls out of the well pit to a controlled dry environment will prolong the life of the system as well as provide easy service and repair.
We can answer all your questions and concerns.
We would like to say that everything could be solved and answered with e-mail and the Internet. However, sometimes we need to communicate over the phone or face to face. If you have a question and need a real answer, call it’s free and it’s right!