|
Water Wells Where's mine
and whats the law?
Your water well should
located opposite and or at least 75 feet away from any septic field
and at least 50' feet from any septic tank. Your well head should
extend at least 8" to 12 " above grade. Your well is most
likely 4" to 6" diameter steel. However, Some States and
counties have approved PVC.
You may have a well pit? If so, your well may be located in a concrete
or cement block vault along with your tank and controls. Constructing
a new well pit is illegal! If need be, only tanks and controls are
allowed in new vault applications.
Back
to top
Why
doesn't my pump shut off?
If you have a JET-PUMP:
there are six basic reasons for this condition. (1) the impellers
are worn. (2) a vaccumn or pressure leak (3) your sand point is
plugged (4) jet or venturi is plugged (5) faulty pressure switch
(6) the water table has dropped
If you have a SUBMERSIBLE
PUMP: (1) the pump is worn (2) the water table has dropped (3)
there is a leak (4) intake is plugged (5) faulty pressure switch
Back
to top
How deep is my well?
Our database of well
depths and water tables is rather extensive. We are tied into many
State and Geological agencies. We should have a good handle on an
approximate depth, if not the actual depth. Other information is
also at hand.
Back
to top
How old is my well and water system?
With just a little help
from you, we can usually identify what kind of equipment you have,
the make and model and approximate manufacturing date. There are
a variety of hidden and scripted date codes. Just call and we will
tell you where to look.
Back
to top
What is a well cap?
A well cap is an approved
manufactured cover of cast steel, aluminum, or PVC. It is fastened
on to the well casing with bolts and a rubber compression "O"
ring and gasket. Both are incorporated to make a water tight and
vermin proof seal. Well caps are also vented with a brass or stainless
mesh. A female threaded port is used to tie in and insert electrical
cable. Well caps must be State approved.
Back
to top
Am I allowed to work on my own well?
Of course you are. You must comply with all the statutes and construction
codes designated by your State. Can a friend install my pump? No!
Only a State certified, registered, and licensed contractor is allowed
to drill wells or install pumps. What about
a plumber? Plumbing, Well drilling, and pump installation
are three entirely different trades. Many plumbers pose that their
credentials are qualified in pump installation. Only plumbers having
attended certified continuing education classes and those that have
requested to be identified and recognized by the State are qualified
and acceptable. Demand to see a plumbers State License bearing the
letter "P" verifying he or she is a qualified pump and
water supply system installer.
Back
to top
Can I disinfect or chlorinate my own well?
Perhaps? Many times
homeowners cause more problems than they solve.
But
yes you can. Just dumping a gallon or two of household
bleach down your well does not effectively clean, disinfect your
well or water supply.
Remember
. "CHLORINE IS POISON" just look
at the label ! The concentrations necessary and the placement are
all factors you should know.
Bleach is highly corrosive, If left in high concentrations on parts
and materials inside your well, will surely destroy the mechanical
apparatus or sealing device. Pulling your pump in the future may
be ruined by a $1.79 gallon of beach! Be.. safe not sorry, call
for advice. We will be glad to help!
Back
to top
Can I take my own water sample?
Yes, sample bottles
are available from your local Dept. of Public Health.
Or at our facility. Please remember to get sampling instructions,
and time your sample around laboratory hours and incubation times.
The best time to take and submit a sample is usually on Mondays
or Tuesdays. Samples sitting over weekends are not preferred. If
you prefer the confidential results of an in home water sample rather
than a public laboratory record, sample kits are available at our
office or sent direct to you at $19.95 + plus $3.20 shipping and
handling.
Back
to top
I have a new baby..
What about the water?
CONTAMINATED
WATER MAY BE CRYSTAL CLEAR, MAY HAVE NO SMELL, AND TASTE SIMPLY
WONDERFUL!
Infants as well as seniors have delicate systems. Water borne bacteria
can cause severe organ and neurological damage and if undetected,
death! We recommend that your water well and or pumping system be
inspected by a state licensed and certified contractor and a water
sample taken and repeated in 30 days. For you own safety, an annual
"sample only" is advised.
Remember contaminated water can be crystal clear, can have no smell
and taste simply wonderful. For more information click on well inspections
for realtors and homeowners.
Back
to top
I don't have a storage
tank in my house
so where is it?
All water systems require
a pressure tank and size does make a difference!
There are few types of storage tanks out there. The most functional
tank is the captive air or bladder type tank. Most bladder type
tanks are completely maintenance free and come in a variety of sizes
to accommodate the water pump. Some tanks are buried when there
is no other alternative. Unfortunately, most burial tanks are attacked
by natural soil acids and rust out several years after installation.
If the iron. mineral content, and pH of your water is not aggressive
a burial tank may fit your application. The labor to replace a burial
tank will require a back hoe or some type of excavating equipment.
Pretty costly!!! To service or replace a tank inside is simply a
service call.
Back
to top
How often is my
pump supposed to run?
It doesn't hurt your
pump to run as much as it does to cycle or turn on and off rapidly.
Short cycling or a water-logged tank causes the pump to turn on
and off excessively. Lets face it, there is so many on and offs
a pump can take. A water-logged tank is the single most common reason
for pump failure. If your concerned we can coach you over the phone
on how to balance, calibrate, and adjust your system to maximize
efficiency and performance.
Back
to top
How do I size a
tank?
A pumps life is gauged
on the amount of times it goes on and off. If you can reduce the
on and offs or (cycles), you will increase the life of your pump!
To accomplish this you must have a correct tank size. A good rule
of thumb and all manufacturers recommend that a pump should run
at least (1) one minute from cut in to cut out. For pumps over ¾
horsepower,a (2) two minutes is recommended. To properly size a
tank you must, you must know the rate in gallons per minute that
your pump will pump? Most residential pumps are rated at 10 GPM
(gallons per minute). Need help? Advice is free.
Back
to top
So what's the difference
between Lowes, Menards, Home Depot, and other mass merchandisers
and us?
Great
.. Now we
have to prove ourselves! All mass merchandisers have purchase power
far beyond the means of any local service and repair firm. Truck
loads of economy and below trade standard pumps, parts, tanks, and
fittings are available without explanation as fast as your Visa
card can process. All they have to do is sell it. They don't have
to install, adjust, calibrate, or balance anything! They are not
called upon to design a system that fits your needs or calculate
performance curves that provide efficient and cost effective operation.
The only guaranty you have is your receipt, the labors on you! Planning
on taking it back? Guess again. If your pump even appears used or
previously installed, it's yours to keep. No returns on used merchandise.
Most likely your helped by a young well intended youth having not
the slightest idea of anything but cost and bigger must be better.
You are well off taking the money you might have saved and buying
a proven nationally know product, by a nationally know manufacturer,
with a real guaranty by a contractor who is certified and licensed,
who is proud to look you straight in the eye at the coffee shop
or grocery store. It doesn't cost
it pays!
Back
to top
Can I have my tank
and pump controls moved inside where it's dry and won't freeze?
Yes, and quite easily
too! Well pits have been the single most cause and source of contaminated
water supplies. Extending your well casing out of the well pit,
free of surface water and contained stagnate water will reduce the
risk of contaminated water. Moving the tank and controls out of
the well pit to a controlled dry environment will prolong the life
of the system as well as provide easy service and repair.
Back
to top
We can answer all your questions and concerns.
We would like to say
that everything could be solved and answered with e-mail and the
Internet. However, sometimes we need to communicate over the phone
or face to face. If you have a question, and need a real answer,
call it's free and it's right!
"WHEN
AVERAGE....... JUST ISN'T GOOD ENOUGH"
1-800-WELL-SERVICE
1-800-935-5737
or
E-mail: info@yourwaterwellandpump.com
|